abendgules: (Mountjoy)
I'm unlikely to ever do first hand research on theories of medieval history, so I rely on professional historians to explain it to me.

I find it fascinating to hear historians argue about theories. This is a nice summary of ten books, several of which I knew of, particularly Norman Cantor's one at the top - it had come out just as I joined the Society.

I hadn't realised 'the stirrup theory' had been discredited: I thought the stirrup was an important advancement in horseriding, and thus mattered a lot. But perhaps it's the 8th c 'introduction' that's in question, b/c I thought I'd seen a Roman stirrup at the MoL. [livejournal.com profile] jpgsawyer, do you know?
abendgules: (prickly)
...I'm now toying with making some medieval cosmetics.

The splendid Ynes de Toledo left us her un-shippable blends of 'red powder for scenting things', 'white powder' and 'powder for nightcaps', among others. We're enjoying using them, and they make me want to try out a limited amount of scenting and mixing.

However, some key ingredients are a bit tricky to source these days, namely civet, musk and ambergris (the £40,000 chunk of ambergris that washed up on a beach in the UK this month notwithstanding): all that pesky treating-animals-ethically business.

(Reading up, it turns out my 'Amber' perfume bought at Pennsic 10+ years ago may not have been amber (the resin) but amber-gris, the whale excretion...who knew?)

Does anyone who works with perfumery know good sources of (advanced artificial) versions of said ingredients? I've been looking through Ynes' notes  - her handout from her excellent class from a few years ago - and have some suppliers noted, but am interested in my friends' experiences. Euro and UK sources preferred.

Any thoughts about sourcing and using essential oils? How about damask roses?
abendgules: (15thc_worker)
As promised - photos of refurbishing a gown.

This pink linen gown was always a fitted undergown, but was originally made to go under my fine purple wool gown, c. 14th c. I knocked it together quickly to wear at the first coronet tourney 2 years ago.

Unfortunately, I chose 2 lightweight linens, rather than one heavy and one light, or two sturdy ones - and even the two together do not provide enough support for me to wear comfortably. It looks...ok - but I saw a pic of myself wearing it last year, and decided it was no longer 'fit for purpose' on its own.


Inspection...


...judged acceptable.


Lined w/out sleeves.

But how to fix it? (implied requirements: easily, cheaply, quickly, etc - the old saw being you get 2/3 of these, but never all three).


The final decision was to do much as I did on my first refurbished gown:
- cut out the front lacing
- add a lining

Cutting out the lacing is always gutting, because it's a lot of handwork to replace. But that's the part that is holding together the two layers. Without it, you can manipulate the fabric as you please.

Gown with lacing cut away - see strips of lacing, waving goodbye to the gown.
New lining is of a cotton twill, very thin, very hard. If I could find linen canvas at a price I liked, I'd buy it, but this twill has served me very well in another gown.

I'm using my trusty old fitted gown pattern, that is effectively just the bodice part: I usually add skirt length to it when cutting a gown, and then do a muslin for the sleeve. This length provides support to about hip level.

I added this layer between the two linen layers, because I still wanted a fairly finished-looking interior of the gown.

At this point, I discover just how much the linen has stretched since I made the gown - the gown necklines, all cut the same shape originally, now have three different shapes, and I'm not able to predict exactly how each one will stretch to fit. So I settle for basting in a vague front neckline, and leaving the back open, til I can try the gown on and see how the fabrics sit together.

At that point, I got Robert to pin the three layers together around the back neckline; I'll probably trim to whatever shape all three layers can agree on. This step still TBA.

I can, however, match the front edges, and redo the lacing holes - once more under supervision:


While lacing holes are a PITA, I do use them a lot...so am now quite quick, and can do about 8-10/hr - so the lacing was finished in one sitting.
Next step: finishing neckline, trimming, edge finishing and test lacing.
abendgules: (downhill)
Last Friday evening, Robert and I rounded out our week of culture with a concert at St Bartholomew the Great church (the one behind St. Barts hospital, featured in Four Weddings and a Funeral, and also where the KWHS tour stopped for an impromptu visit a couple of years ago).

This was a citole concert - the feature of a citole workshop going on during Friday and Saturday, and we had the pleasant company of Master Otto of Gaita, who was in Thamesreach to attend the workshop at the British Museum.

The citole is a little-known medieval stringed instrument, looking a bit like a ukelele in size, like a guitar or lute in layout, but with a huge solid neckpiece. The only surviving example is at British Museum, and it's not a great one at that, having been reworked into a sort of violin sometime in the 16th c, and not very successfully at that, according to Otto; it made a poor violin, but extremely decorative.

However, there's enough documentary and pictorial evidence for them existing in the 13-14th c, before giving way to lutes and other instruments, and the sole example was enough for a woodworker to recreate models with - two of which were being played at the concert. The performers were early music specialists all visiting from the US, where they each had areas of expertise and academic accolades. 

The concert was splendid - a mix of instrumental and vocal performances, a mix of familiar tunes that Gaita and others have recorded along with unknowns. The gent singing was a countertenor (which Otto says is contraversial in medieval music circles: lacking evidence for the practice, and possibly influenced by post-period vocal conventions like opera) - medieval or not, a very polished and confident performer. The women sang with him, but didn't usually sing alone for these pieces.

One, according to Otto, was supporting the performance almost entirely with embellishment, rather than from arranged sheet music. He said that he now knows so many of the pieces so well, the fun for him is in hearing live performances - to see what experienced musicians do with a piece, rather than listening to a favourite recording over and over.

The were clapped to a very civil encore - not another performance, but an acknowledgement of thanks - graciously saying that it was a thrill, as three New World musicians, to perform in such a lovely Old World setting. St Barts has a wonderful mix of Romanesque and early Gothic features, excellent accoustics, plus of course, lots of heraldry.
abendgules: (Default)
Terrific article in The Psychologist about the Dancing plagues and mass hysteria, and how they can now be accounted for not by ergotism (which I'd heard of before) but as response to severe stress that affect the whole community.

Poor nuns seem particularly prone to it, as their lives are even more constrained than everyone else's!
abendgules: (Default)
Namedropping as I go...

BBC iPlayer has 'In search of Medieval Britain', a couple of documentaries about, well, Medieval Britain.

I'm excited about them because the narrator is Alixe Bovey - she led an art history course I attended at Courtauld a few years ago, and she's published a couple of monographs through the British Library (one is about the monsters in marginalia in illum MSS).

I have no idea how good the shows will be, but I'm willing to risk the time and bandwidth to find out!

Doesn't hurt that she's originally Canadian. :-)
abendgules: (seneschal_cat)
London is once more rich with treasures to see in the galleries and museums. 
Hope this inspires some visits and beer & museum trips. 
abendgules: (penwork E)

While googling for information about medieval table manners and courtesy, I stumbled across a tremendous resource of out-of-copyright books on the topic.*

Early English meals and manners : with some forewords on education in Early England (1868)
Author: Furnivall, Frederick James, 1825-1910

The boke of curtasye, an English poem of the fourteenth century (1841)
...includes a poem on the science of 14thc. cookery, 'Liber Cocorum'.
Author: Halliwell-Phillipps, J. O. (James Orchard), 1820-1889

A Fifteenth-century courtesy book (1914)
...includes two 15th c. Franciscan rules
Author: British Library. Manuscript. Additional 37969
(Early English Text Society)

English courtesy literature before 1557 (1919)
Author: Millett, Fred Benjamin, 1890-
'Bulletin of the depts of History  and Political and Economic Science in Queen's University, Kingston, Ontario, Canada'
(very short, only 16 pages)

*Victorian England had a strong academic and popular interest in the middle ages. 

The Early English Text Society was one group of academics who printed and published medieval texts. Their original purpose was to support research for the OED. 

They put a great deal of original text within reach of ordinary readers, who otherwise would never get to read it. Thanks to them, in part, we now have several books like these available.

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