German 16th c. gown - the final stretch

[abendgules]

I'm finally coming close to finishing a late-period clothing project that has dragged on for years. As much as I'm pleased with it, I don't think I'm making something like this again any time soon! Cote hardies are sufficiently complex for me.

Robert agreed to take pics of the several layers of this gown. Please ignore somewhat grumpy expression: I thought my face was more neutral than that!

Also, unfortunately this isn't a true representation of the bold red colour in the skirt - it seems very variable depending on the light source.

The slashed 1520s style shoes are from a reenactor merchant - very reasonably priced, and very cute.

Items remaining to complete outfit:
- hooks to hang skirt to bodice
- fitting again, to decide how to attach bustband to bodice (hooks & eyes, or stitch one side and pin/hook & eye)
- hem about 15 miles of skirt
- make a beaded snood
- possibly make a fine pleated partlet to fill the neckline
- find plied cord to lace sleeves to bodice, or ply more
- reshape hat 1.0 so it actually stays put

	smock, hose and shoes with turban to retain my modesty
	undergown, with lacing on each side Linen, lined with calico and linen in bodice.
	underdress side view
	underdress back view cartridge pleating at back, wide knife pleats in front
	adding white linen facing This is a sort of flat 'stomacher' pinned in place, to give a smooth white front to go under the gown and lacing. The vast majority of the gowns appear to have smooth white surface under the top layer.
	added skirt This is the cartridge pleated velvet skirt, lined with linen. It actually sits above my natural waist, and will hang from the doublet by hooks and eyes, to keep the doublet in place. It's very heavy.
	laced bodice and separate lower sleeves Bodice hooks to the skirt. Lower sleeves are separate, and slide on, loosely laced over puffy linen chemise. Have to find the lacing cord I plied up for this purpose.
	side view of bodice and sleeves The cartridge pleating actually forces the skirt out from my waist quite sharply, as you can see.
	bustband pinned into doublet Requires fitting, after finishing skirt+doublet
	hat and choker Hat 1.0 is too small and requires work. Choker is by thorngrove, gold trim mounted on silk velvet, and beaded with pearls and garnets.

Comments

[starmadeshadow.livejournal.com]

That is truly splendid! Very, very impressed.

[aryanhwy.livejournal.com]

I love the progression pictures! And the end product is amazing.

[j-v-lynch.livejournal.com]

lovely. looking forward to see Hat 2.0.

[fineum.livejournal.com]

Great job - smile :)

[shaunacarrick.livejournal.com]

Very nice, indeed! I am extremely impressed with the pleating - you did a great job on all of it!

[maryf.livejournal.com]

That looks really quite magnificent! I never realised that that type of outfit also had an undergown, or that the skirt hung off the doublet!

[bend-gules.livejournal.com]

Both the undergown, and using hooks and eyes for keeping the skirt and doublet together, are Anne of Wokyingham's ideas. See other post about undergown!
The hooks and eyes are well attested in English clothing, for men and women, keeping doublets attached to bottom halves.
For this outfit, they are very practical solution. The skirt weighs a ton, and hanging it off the doublet distributes the weight on my shoulders rather than my waist.
The doublet is very short and fitted, and without some anchoring, rides up easily; the skirts wil provide plenty of anchor!

[ethnowoman.livejournal.com]

Love the sleeves!

[kirieldp.livejournal.com]

Looking great, well done!

I am curious about the undergown too. So far I haven't noticed any evidence of undergowns in German (which I hasten to say does not mean there isn't any, just that I haven't noticed it) and I have seen quite a few portraits that strongly suggest that there is only a chemise worn - clothes half off, that sort of thing.

I favour the sewn one side and pinned the other method myself, but that is because I change shape so what fits me today might not fit me so well in a month's time. But if you are of stable figure, go hooks and eyes; just make sure you are thoroughly laced in and up before putting them in place!

[suelet.livejournal.com]

Great job. It looks fabulous. I love all of the "under" detailing.

But I agree with fineum...your smile would be a perfect finishing touch. You look so serious! :)

[merlyn-gabriel.livejournal.com]

wow!!!

[wortschmiedin.livejournal.com]

very very nice work.

[my-stitching.livejournal.com]

It looks fantastic!

[sharikkamur.livejournal.com]

Very impressive!

[larmer.livejournal.com]

nice. I like the progression shots.

[aumtattoo.livejournal.com]

I'm very impressed - and you look great in that!

[nusbacher.livejournal.com]

You know what I like best about the outfit? It looks very YOU!

If you can wait two weeks I have a bunch of big hooks and eyes.

[bend-gules.livejournal.com]

Actually I have enough hooks and eyes - flat ones, that you use for trousers that don't bulge or dig in. (I previously had quite large silk-wrapped ones holding together a doublet and skirt, and always squirmed because they were creating divots right round my waist. I know what to look for now!)