abendgules: (brocade)
abendgules ([personal profile] abendgules) wrote2013-03-12 08:20 pm
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Anyone used Reconstructing History patterns?

I'm a longtime self-taught sempstress and have learned using measurements, and gradually moved on to fitted garments with cloth and paper blocks, with pretty good results.

I've used modern patterns a bit, for modern clothes and can follow pattern instructions.

I'm now tackling (or hoping to tackle, eventually) a couple of projects where I don't have much experienced - full hose, mens' doublets, Italian ladies' clothes - so I'm considering lashing out on patterns for guidance.

Does anyone have experience with these patterns? Are there any assumptions I should know about?

[identity profile] my-stitching.livejournal.com 2013-03-12 09:20 pm (UTC)(link)
In general, they are not easy patterns. But they can give wonderful results. They are intended for those who want to make something the period way and not the modern way. Sometimes experienced seamstresses disregard instructions because they already know how to put a garment together. You cannot do this with these patterns. You have to follow the instructions.

And if you run into some issues, the owner is super nice. Her name is Kass McGann and she is here on LJ (Kassrants) and on facebook. RH is also on facebook.

Good luck!

[identity profile] bend-gules.livejournal.com 2013-03-13 12:49 pm (UTC)(link)
Yes, have followed the growth of Kass' business with interest, and the development of the GFD over the years.

I've gotten a couple of people replying saying the instructions for RH patterns are critical to their success.

It's hard to fault someone for developing a pattern system, where *following the instructions* is important. :-) Duh - that's why you buy a pattern, instead of working from scratch.

But it seems a lot of tailors and sempstresses want to simply use the pattern, and ignore the instructions.

Since I write instructional text for a living, I don't have much sympathy for people who don't at least *read it through* to get an idea of the construction process.

Of course I read the manual when I bought my laptop...so I realise I'm not typical.

[identity profile] my-stitching.livejournal.com 2013-03-13 02:04 pm (UTC)(link)
I'm totally guilty of using patterns without reading the instructions. But, more often than not, I am only using one or two pieces from a pattern so that I don't have to draft them myself. I especially do this with sleeves. I hate them so I cheat and start with someone else's sleeve. Easier to alter than to draft!

But with Kass' patterns, I follow the instructions. :)

[identity profile] badgersandjam.livejournal.com 2013-03-12 10:44 pm (UTC)(link)
I was always told for hose to use the duct tape method. Same with doublets.
ext_143250: 1911 Mystery lady (Mystery)

[identity profile] xrian.livejournal.com 2013-03-13 01:32 am (UTC)(link)
People who love these patterns rave about them. They do, as another commenter said, require you to read, understand, and follow the directions (not a universal skill set! ;)

People who don't love them tend to focus on the size grading, I.e. the math that takes one pattern and automatically translates it into many sizes. Apparently for some garments this doesn't work very well, especially since IIUC it's a modern set of equations not designed for garments that don't always fit like modern garments.

I hasten to add that I'm passing this along as hearsay, since I haven't used any of the patterns that require close fitting. I just listen to what other costumers say.

If that's the case, it is probably worth your while to check a few pattern measurements to make sure, for instance, that edges that are supposed to be sewn to each other (and not eased) are the same length. And making at least a partial muslin first is seldom a bad idea ;)

[identity profile] mariedeblois.livejournal.com 2013-03-13 03:56 am (UTC)(link)
For the one RH pattern I've tried so far, I wish I'd had the opportunity to do at least two muslins, because I was a) working long-distance and b) working on a type of item I was unfamiliar with (men's pants). I trusted the pattern rather than the back-of-my-head voice saying seam X wasn't long enough, and it wasn't long enough. That said, I'd have noticed and been able to solve that if it hadn't been for the long distance thing.

[identity profile] bend-gules.livejournal.com 2013-03-13 12:53 pm (UTC)(link)
Aha, this is useful to know. The grading assumptions are really important to (modern commercial) patterns.

And yes, a muslin is a must.

[identity profile] idaho-smith.livejournal.com 2013-03-15 03:23 am (UTC)(link)
Nearly all the stuff I've ever made is based on the RH "Cutting Instructions", but this is only the Early Mediaeval "cloth-cylinders and gores" that're only slightly beyond the SCA welcome pamphlet's basic t-tunic. It's not a pattern for the Renaissance's tailored stuff at all. Sorry.