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WIP: my own cartidge pleating
Aug. 5th, 2008 03:16 pmTowards reworking my non-specific late-period costume into a recogniseable Elizabethan doublet and skirt: this is my work on the petticoat.
I'd previously used a two-layer petticoat, gathered at the wide waistband. Both layers are a sort of neutral colour cotton.
I've unpicked the waistband and gathering, pressed it to within an inch of its life, and now reassembled it into a single skirt (lighter-weight cotton in back, as it'll never be seen), and am pleating it onto a smaller waistband.
It's full enough to do cartridge pleating in the back and sides, but I want knife-pleating in the front, to keep down the bulk around my tum.
I'm still stitching down the pleating - my hands are rather sore from stitching and folding (and possibly from some knitting...) so this really is a WIP.
Yes, it's cotton - and not the wool form of cotton. I'm sticking with it because I don't have suitable linen I want to use in this project at the moment, and also because the whole project is something of an experiment. If it works, and I get a nice outfit out of it, I can always upgrade w/ a (red?) linen or silk petticoat in future. Till then, I'm using what I have at hand.
My hope is to keep pinning foreparts to this petticoat, and then wearing the blue skirt overall.
I've considered stitching together all the foreparts into a sort of pinwheel forepart skirt, where I could 'spin' them around to change forepart colours. I've seen it in the SCA, never known if it's an authentic practice (though using only good fabric in the visible front and cheaper 'filler' in back is arguably correct).
I'd previously used a two-layer petticoat, gathered at the wide waistband. Both layers are a sort of neutral colour cotton.
I've unpicked the waistband and gathering, pressed it to within an inch of its life, and now reassembled it into a single skirt (lighter-weight cotton in back, as it'll never be seen), and am pleating it onto a smaller waistband.
It's full enough to do cartridge pleating in the back and sides, but I want knife-pleating in the front, to keep down the bulk around my tum.
I'm still stitching down the pleating - my hands are rather sore from stitching and folding (and possibly from some knitting...) so this really is a WIP.
Yes, it's cotton - and not the wool form of cotton. I'm sticking with it because I don't have suitable linen I want to use in this project at the moment, and also because the whole project is something of an experiment. If it works, and I get a nice outfit out of it, I can always upgrade w/ a (red?) linen or silk petticoat in future. Till then, I'm using what I have at hand.
My hope is to keep pinning foreparts to this petticoat, and then wearing the blue skirt overall.
I've considered stitching together all the foreparts into a sort of pinwheel forepart skirt, where I could 'spin' them around to change forepart colours. I've seen it in the SCA, never known if it's an authentic practice (though using only good fabric in the visible front and cheaper 'filler' in back is arguably correct).
 | Starting point: Lining of the petticoat Two layers of cotton, flattened in the front, gathered in the sides and back. Hoping to piece it into a more authentic (pleated?)petticoat, along with the other forepart pieces. |
 | Petticoat Previously used curtain cord along a channel at the bottom of the skirt to keep it hung down. |
 | cartridge pleating a petticoat This petticoat is assembled from the two layers that were in my old petticoat. I unpicked them, pressed them, and stitched them into a single tube, then started pleating, with flat pleating at front centre. |
