This weekend was a Time to Putter - an extended weekend with no event travel, from which I really, really did not want to return to work.
My second warming and whisking of my cold cream resulted in a much smoother mix, but as it cooled, the rosewater seemed to collect in pockets within the paste. When I scooped some out on a finger, there were shiny bubbles of rosewater within the mix.
So I mixed it again, and as I mixed it broke up the pockets and suddenly I had a paste with runny clear water on top, which wasn't attractive. Ten minutes of stirring didn't get it worked back in, and only putting it on the heat again reincorporated the freed-up rosewater. I added more oil, to see if I could balance it again, but on cooling it 'pocketed' the water again.
So it seems I don't have the proportions right, because Ynes managed to make a lovely cold cream that, when it separated, I managed to re-mix successfully into a smooth cream. Must consult.
On the plus side - it's a very nice cream, even if it separated, and smells very pleasantly of rosewater and beeswax. I wonder if the white beeswax is scent-free, or if I have to break down and add some other wax. You can get other types of wax for cosmetics at Baldwins.
It may be that missing borax that is at fault. I tried the local cleaning-chemicals shop, which was closed. Also hoping to source some caustic soda for soapmaking from the same shop.
When I mentioned borax, Robert said we should get some, because it can serve as an additive in pewtering - reduces the amount of slag, somehow. Who knew? (well my sweetie did, obviously)
My big-hopes project remains the cyperus powder as a dry shampoo, something I want to replicate.
So I started this weekend, again with mixed results.
First of all, some of the ingredient quantities are very, very small - 1ml of civet absolute comes as a paste, rather than an oil, and won't even drip out of the 10ml bottle - have to scoop it out on the handle of a spoon. Some of the other ingredients also came as oils - sandalwood, musk and damask rose - and I've no idea how these concentrated oils will compare to the '1/2 ounce' quantity in the original recipe.
The civet absolute (artificial, not animal-sourced) is weird stuff. It's not mixed with any other scent, and by itself isn't very pleasant. The first whiff is extremely sharp, pungent, something between the poopy litterbox and visiting the zoo. It's not exactly 'musky' because all the musks I've smelled have been much more pleasant, but does remind me (unsurprisingly) of handling a ferret. I want to try to describe it more accurately for the gent who sold it to me, but am short of descriptors.
But the existing cyperus powder I have from Ynes does have that sharpness, and it's closely followed by the muskiness, so something has to provide that first 'grab' of your nose.
At any rate: I mixed the oils and ground the benzoin into a small quantity of the orris root powder in the mortar, and gradually mixed the powder into larger and larger quantities, finally adding some rose petals for texture. I've got a quantity of powder now comperable to the batch Ynes made, but so far, it does not match the smell - it's in the same family I'd say, but not yet close enough. I wouldn't want to rub it into my hair just yet.
Somehow, in all my recent purchases, I had not bought one ingredient (inevitably, one of the rare, difficult to source, and ethically awkward ones), called 'oud' or 'aloes wood', which misleadingly has nothing to do with aloe vera. When I looked it up again, I could see why I'd paused - £45 for 1 ml as an oil.
I tossed around options from Hermitage and also from Pan's Pantry, and finally lashed out on what I think is an incense ingredient from a pagan shop, that is a more modest price, but is probably not an essential oil. Goodness knows what will come in the mail - hopefully something I can grind.
So that project is on hold (and the existing ingredients blending in a container) til I have the last one.
While searching for Oud, I found these shops stocking 'Arabian perfumes' - including specifically musk and oud. So while we talk about the 'exoticness' of spices and oils coming from the middle east in the medieval period, evidently it's still a market now.
In related news, PhD comics carried a 2 minute thesis about reproducing the DNA of 'whale barf' (ambergris) - not specifically for perfume, but more for the process, which could apply to other rare compounds. At least, I think that's what she's after.
ETA: no aloes wood from the pagan shop - out of stock. Sigh. More sourcing required.
My second warming and whisking of my cold cream resulted in a much smoother mix, but as it cooled, the rosewater seemed to collect in pockets within the paste. When I scooped some out on a finger, there were shiny bubbles of rosewater within the mix.
So I mixed it again, and as I mixed it broke up the pockets and suddenly I had a paste with runny clear water on top, which wasn't attractive. Ten minutes of stirring didn't get it worked back in, and only putting it on the heat again reincorporated the freed-up rosewater. I added more oil, to see if I could balance it again, but on cooling it 'pocketed' the water again.
So it seems I don't have the proportions right, because Ynes managed to make a lovely cold cream that, when it separated, I managed to re-mix successfully into a smooth cream. Must consult.
On the plus side - it's a very nice cream, even if it separated, and smells very pleasantly of rosewater and beeswax. I wonder if the white beeswax is scent-free, or if I have to break down and add some other wax. You can get other types of wax for cosmetics at Baldwins.
It may be that missing borax that is at fault. I tried the local cleaning-chemicals shop, which was closed. Also hoping to source some caustic soda for soapmaking from the same shop.
When I mentioned borax, Robert said we should get some, because it can serve as an additive in pewtering - reduces the amount of slag, somehow. Who knew? (well my sweetie did, obviously)
My big-hopes project remains the cyperus powder as a dry shampoo, something I want to replicate.
So I started this weekend, again with mixed results.
First of all, some of the ingredient quantities are very, very small - 1ml of civet absolute comes as a paste, rather than an oil, and won't even drip out of the 10ml bottle - have to scoop it out on the handle of a spoon. Some of the other ingredients also came as oils - sandalwood, musk and damask rose - and I've no idea how these concentrated oils will compare to the '1/2 ounce' quantity in the original recipe.
The civet absolute (artificial, not animal-sourced) is weird stuff. It's not mixed with any other scent, and by itself isn't very pleasant. The first whiff is extremely sharp, pungent, something between the poopy litterbox and visiting the zoo. It's not exactly 'musky' because all the musks I've smelled have been much more pleasant, but does remind me (unsurprisingly) of handling a ferret. I want to try to describe it more accurately for the gent who sold it to me, but am short of descriptors.
But the existing cyperus powder I have from Ynes does have that sharpness, and it's closely followed by the muskiness, so something has to provide that first 'grab' of your nose.
At any rate: I mixed the oils and ground the benzoin into a small quantity of the orris root powder in the mortar, and gradually mixed the powder into larger and larger quantities, finally adding some rose petals for texture. I've got a quantity of powder now comperable to the batch Ynes made, but so far, it does not match the smell - it's in the same family I'd say, but not yet close enough. I wouldn't want to rub it into my hair just yet.
Somehow, in all my recent purchases, I had not bought one ingredient (inevitably, one of the rare, difficult to source, and ethically awkward ones), called 'oud' or 'aloes wood', which misleadingly has nothing to do with aloe vera. When I looked it up again, I could see why I'd paused - £45 for 1 ml as an oil.
I tossed around options from Hermitage and also from Pan's Pantry, and finally lashed out on what I think is an incense ingredient from a pagan shop, that is a more modest price, but is probably not an essential oil. Goodness knows what will come in the mail - hopefully something I can grind.
So that project is on hold (and the existing ingredients blending in a container) til I have the last one.
While searching for Oud, I found these shops stocking 'Arabian perfumes' - including specifically musk and oud. So while we talk about the 'exoticness' of spices and oils coming from the middle east in the medieval period, evidently it's still a market now.
In related news, PhD comics carried a 2 minute thesis about reproducing the DNA of 'whale barf' (ambergris) - not specifically for perfume, but more for the process, which could apply to other rare compounds. At least, I think that's what she's after.
ETA: no aloes wood from the pagan shop - out of stock. Sigh. More sourcing required.