Dec. 14th, 2008

abendgules: (15thc_worker)
So I'm back to puttering with the Elizabethan gown 3Rs project.

Petticoat was fixed over the summer - taken apart, re-pleated onto a narrower band as cartridge pleats. A bit lopsided (more pleats on one side than the other! whoops) but noone will see it under my skirt.

Bodice: I've recut the neckline so it's square, and trimmed the lower back so it fits correctly. The sleeves have come off so I can reshape them into padded rolls. Some of the bones came out, as the neckline was straightened out. I've bought lacing tape so I can lace the bodice to the skirt, rather than using hooks.

As suggested by [livejournal.com profile] lacedwaist  I'm aiming for a middleclass outfit, c. 1580s or so: bodice, skirt, petticoats & foreparts, smock, probably detachable sleeves.

My big concern is the colour of the bodice and skirt. It's nagging at me. At one time I wouldn't have cared, but I'm growing more crotchety in my (SCA) old age.

I have a vague memory that in the 16th c, dark blue was either impossibly expensive, or deadly cheap, and suitable only for servants - too cheap for a middleclass woman. Does anyone else remember?

So I'm debating dyeing it. I can get machine-wash Dylon in a couple of shades of dark brown, and the colour stripper for pre-treating coloured things.
The trouble is that I'm not confident that the Dylon will 'stick'.

My past efforts at washing-machine dyeing have had good results, but they faded, particularly if you sweated into them. A bodice will definitely see some sweat, and I don't want it to stain my chemises.

Has anyone had good results with dyeing finished garments w/ Dylon? How well did it keep?

OTOH - can anyone clarify the business of the status of dark blue as a wearable late 16th c colour? I don't want to keep working on it  - adding sleeves and guards - only to decide that I want it in another colour. Now (after I've finished raw edges) is the time to decide...

Lia? Hedwig? other 16th c. mavins? any thoughts or references?

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